I love my smart home for many reasons. One of the reasons that gives me the most joy is my functional and decorative lighting. I use WLED-powered addressable LED installations throughout my home for year-round decorative lighting. Over the years I’ve used various WLED hardware for different purposes. In this article, I’ll use that knowledge to map out the different WLED hardware you should look into as you start your WLED-powered addressable light journey.
This page contains affiliate links. If you purchase an item using an affiliate link I will receive a small commission at no cost to you. Affiliates do not influence my recommendations. Read my disclosures for more information.
Editor’s Note: Just getting started with WLED? Check out the easy way to get a beautiful WLED-powered installation up quickly.
Table of Contents
WLED Controllers
QuinLED controllers
Fortunately there are a lot of good WLED controllers out there. The primary purpose-built controllers that I use are from QuinLED. They have a variety of prebuilt controllers with options such as longer range antennas, ethernet connections, cases, etc. I’ve purchased a few “Dig-Unos,” some with the longer range antenna attachment the works well further out in my yard.
They have many other controllers that can control more than one set LED strips or strings at a time, which can be very useful. These devices simplify power injections, work with 5V, 12V, and 48V LEDs, have overvoltage protection, and onboard USB-C ports for updating or changing firmware. If you are unsure of which model to buy, checkout this explanation and recommendation page. These controllers are affordable and generally run from $25-$70 depending on the options you want. The ones I’ve bought tend to be around $30.
Athom controllers
Athom also makes inexpensive and reliable controllers powered by WLED. When compared to the QuinLED controllers they look more like mased produced products and less like something a techy would put together. Like, the QuinLED controllers, most of the controllers are powered by an ESP32 chip. They work pretty well. I have a couple of these in my house.
Various Amazon WLED controllers
There are a ton of inexpensive controllers with WLED installed on them available for purchase on Amazon. All of them feature either the ESP8266 or ESP32 control chip and they all pretty much the same thing. The primary differences are in build quality and form factor. Some of them are sound reactive as well.
DIY Controller
If you are so inclined you can build your own controller, as I did initially with with a nodeMCU chip, or flash controller with WLED firmware. Here is a list of compatible hardware that you can flash along with links to instructions on how to do it. Additionally, QuinLED has instructions on how you can build the same boards they sell on your own.
LED Strip Lights vs LED String Lights
While both LED strip lights and LED string lights work with WLED, they serve different purposes and have key differences. LED strip lights are flexible, flat ribbons of LEDs mounted on a thin PCB, designed for linear installations such as under-cabinet lighting, behind TVs, or room accents. They provide continuous, uniform illumination and often come with an adhesive backing for easy mounting.
In contrast, LED string lights have individual LEDs wired along a cable and are often bulb-shaped or encapsulated, making them ideal for decorative or outdoor use like tree lighting or festive displays. Unlike strip lights, they are generally less flexible in how they spread light, but they can cover a larger area with fewer LEDs. Strip lights are best for precise, directional lighting, while string lights excel at creating decorative, eye-catching setups with a bit more spacing between LEDs.
Let’s talk about string lights first.
WLED String Lights
When selecting LED string lights for a WLED setup, you’ll primarily come across three common types: WS2812B, WS2811, and SK6812. Each has different characteristics that can affect your decision depending on your project.
- WS2812B: These are some of the most popular individually addressable LEDs for WLED. They operate on 5V, which means they are easier to power with standard USB power supplies, but voltage drop over long distances is a concern. If you’re using WS2812B strips or strings, you may need power injection to maintain consistent brightness across the strip, especially for runs longer than 2-3 meters.
- WS2811: Unlike WS2812B, WS2811 LEDs typically run on 12V, which reduces voltage drop issues and allows for longer runs without needing frequent power injection.
- SK6812: These LEDs are similar to WS2812B but come with some notable improvements. They also run on 5V, but they support additional white color variations (cool white, warm white, or natural white) in addition to RGB. This makes them an excellent choice for users who want a more natural-looking white light option while still retaining full RGB capabilities.
Choosing the Right String Lights for Your WLED Project:
- If you have a short run of lights and want easy options for powering them, go with WS2812B.
- If you need longer runs and want to reduce power issues and points of power injection, WS2811 (12V) is the better option.
- If you want better white tones for mixed ambient lighting, SK6812 is your best bet.
Each type has its place in WLED setups, and the best choice depends on whether your focus is on ease of power management, lighting effects, or overall project complexity. I tend to use WS2811 LEDs because most of my runs are longer. Here are a few I recommend, some at different lengths:
I should note that you need to be careful when mixing and matching different brands, or even the same brands bought at different times from different sellers, if you want to connect them. Sometimes the lights do their colors differently, meaning some are RGB, some GRB, and some BGR. The easiest way to program the lights across all connected strings is if they have the same color screen. I recommend purchasing all the lights you want to connect at the same time.
WLED Strip Lights
Different strips have different voltages, densities, and features that impact brightness, power requirements, and control. Here are the most common types of addressable LED strips compatible with WLED:
- WS2812B LED Strips (5V): One of the most popular and widely used addressable LED strips, WS2812B runs on 5V, making it easy to power with USB adapters or small power supplies. Since each LED is individually addressable, you can create complex lighting effects and patterns. However, voltage drop is a concern—after 2-3 meters, LEDs farther down the strip may lose brightness unless you add power injection points. These strips are great for small to medium-sized projects, such as PC lighting, TV backlighting, and indoor accent lighting.
- WS2815 LED Strips (12V, Redundant Data Line): WS2815 is an improved version of WS2812B, running on 12V instead of 5V. The higher voltage reduces voltage drop, meaning you can run longer strips without as many power injection points. Another major advantage is the redundant data line—if one LED fails, the signal can bypass it and continue operating, unlike WS2812B, where a single failure can break the entire strip. WS2815 is ideal for larger setups like room lighting, under-cabinet lighting, or outdoor installations where reliability is a priority.
- WS2811 LED Strips (12V, 3-LED Groups): WS2811 strips also operate on 12V, but unlike WS2815, these strips typically control LEDs in groups of three rather than individually. This means fewer pixels to control, which reduces processing power and memory load on your WLED controller.
- SK6812 LED Strips (5V, Enhanced Color): SK6812 strips are functionally similar to WS2812B but with one key difference—they include an extra white LED (RGBW). This allows for brighter, more natural-looking white tones, making them better for ambient lighting where pure white accuracy matters. If you want a soft, warm white mode in addition to vibrant colors, SK6812 strips are a great option. Like WS2812B, they are 5V, so power injection is necessary for longer runs.
Choosing the Best LED Strip for Your Needs
Selecting the right strip depends on your power setup, control needs, and project scale. For large installations, 12V options help minimize power loss, while 5V strips offer the most customization for effects.
- For short, high-precision lighting with full control → WS2812B (5V)
- For longer runs with fewer power issues → WS2815 (12V) or WS2811 (12V)
- For a mix of vibrant colors and natural white tones → SK6812 (5V, RGBW)
- For cost-effective long runs without needing individual LED control → WS2811 (12V, 3-LED groups)
I will give the same caution as I did for the LED strings. Be careful when trying to connect multiple brands of LED strips to avoid color mismatches. Here are a few I recommend:
Power Supplies
When setting up WLED-powered LED strips or strings, selecting the right power supply is crucial for stability, brightness, and longevity. The power supply must provide the correct voltage and amperage for your LED setup while maintaining efficiency and safety. Here’s a breakdown of the most common options:
1. DC Power Adapters (Plug-in) – Best for Small Setups
Voltage Options: 5V, 12V, 24V
Typical Amperage: 2A – 10A
For smaller LED projects like accent lighting or small desk displays, a DC power adapter (commonly seen with laptop chargers) is an easy solution. These plug directly into a wall outlet and often have barrel connectors or terminal outputs for easy wiring. These are the types I use most around my house.
- Best for: Short LED strips (<5 meters), small LED string displays.
- Pros: Easy to find, plug-and-play, no extra wiring needed.
- Cons: Limited power capacity; not suitable for large installations.
2. Mean Well (or Similar) Enclosed Power Supplies – Best for Medium to Large Installations
Voltage Options: 5V, 12V, 24V
Typical Amperage: 10A – 60A
For larger WLED setups, enclosed power supplies (often found in industrial and DIY electronics projects) offer a more reliable and higher-output solution. Brands like Mean Well provide high-quality options with adjustable voltage, built-in cooling, and protection circuits. These require direct AC wiring (110V/220V input) and use screw terminals for DC output.
- Best for: Medium to large LED strip setups, synchronized LED string light displays.
- Pros: High power capacity, good efficiency, adjustable voltage, built-in protections.
- Cons: Requires manual wiring, usually not plug-and-play.
3. LED Drivers – Constant Voltage for Stable Power
Voltage Options: 12V, 24V
Typical Amperage: 5A – 60A
LED drivers are specifically designed to provide constant voltage to LEDs, helping to reduce flickering and extend lifespan. They are similar to enclosed power supplies but are optimized for LED loads, ensuring smooth dimming and better efficiency. I use these types for my larger outdoor installations.
- Best for: Permanent LED installations, architectural lighting.
- Pros: Stable output, designed for LEDs, often waterproof.
- Cons: Limited flexibility compared to Mean Well power supplies, and often more expensive.
Here are a few recommendations for power supplies, many of I have used. I’ve only ever had one fail on me after year-round use for years:
Other WLED Hardware
Although lights, controllers, and power supplies are the core WLED installations, many other tools and products may come into play. For example, for my outdoor installations, I usually need a project box to weatherproof the electrical components, and I usually need outdoor-rated cables and connectors for power injection. I use terminal blocks to help with running multiple wires to multiple power injection points. Additionally, I sometimes use tubing wrap and/or silicone tap to protect wired connections from the elements. Below are some of the products that I prefer to use:
Every good craftsman also needs a good set of tools to get the job done. When creating these installations, you need good wire cutters and a soldering kit. You may also want a helping hand and a head magnifier with lighting to make soldering and connections easier. If you are going to use shrink-wrap rubbing, you could use a lighter, but a heat gun will work much better. Below are the tools I’ve successfully used over the years:
Final thoughts
I hope this article helps you decide on the best WLED hardware so you can make installations like mine or better ones! Sometimes you must try different things to know exactly what works best for you. Fortunately, much of the hardware is inexpensive and the WLED software is free!
You can find additional hardware advice, including non DIY options by using our Smart LED Strings and Strips Advisor.
Let me know what hardware you prefer and why in the comments and on X/Twitter.
